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Climbing in Los Vados

Practice of sport climbing in this school, located in the Tajo de los Vados of Vélez de Benaudalla, 60 kilometers from the city of Granada.

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Zona Costera

Coastal Zone

Escalada Deportiva

Sport climbing

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Technical data sheet

Technical Difficulty:

School of sport climbing on limestone rock in which predominates single-pitch pathways, medium-high grade (6th and 7th grade), and with a vertical overhanging wall.

Orientation: South, southwest, west, northwest, and east.
Equipment:

Intermediate anchorages and belays fixed with expansive anchors or parabolts.

Restrictions: Yes.
There are climbing sectors subjected to temporary regulations due to nesting (see here)
Details on the duration:
  • 0 - 45 min.
  • 1 pitch: 40 m.
  • Several pitches: 250 m.
Minimum altitude: 67,00 m.
Maximum altitude: 480,00 m.
Closest/s Population/s : Lobres, Velez de Benaudalla, Motril and Salobreña.
Municipality/ies: Vélez de Benaudalla, Motril and Salobreña.
Region/s: Costa Tropical.
Natural Space/s: Other Areas

Map & Profile

Mapa-Escalada-en-los-Vados-Web
Map "Climbing in Los Vados"

Full tour

Total distance: 4907 m

Waypoints

Point Name Height Latitude (*) Length (*)
P1 Parking 1 Tajo del Escalate 87 m N36° 48' 17.8" W3° 32' 24.0"
P2 Parking 2 Minotauro, Carretera, Río, Matrix, Diedro Blanco and Pared de la Virgen 76 m N36° 47' 32.1" W3° 32' 19.2"
P3 Parking lot 3 Límbico, Berrios, La Canal, Placas Negras and La Guardería 71 m N36° 47' 27.1" W3° 32' 11.0"

(*) Geographic coordinates. European Datum 1.950.

Introduction

Part of the information used to prepare this summary was obtained from the guide to sport climbing “Escalar en Granada”, whose author is Pablo Gómez Ruiz. 

The climbing school of Los Vados has 176 routes spread across 12 sectors. The predominant of a single pitch, 6th-7th grade, and with a vertical overhanging wall. The rock is limestone of good quality and the orientation of the sectors is very varied, making possible the practice of climbing throughout the year. In some sectors, there are pitches with a height of 40 meters.

The Tajo de Los Vados is the deep canyon that the river Guadalfeo goes through before getting to the Costa Tropical of Granada and, with it, the Mediterranean Sea.

Description

DIFFICULTY:

Very high. Climbing requires knowledge of specific techniques and the use of adequate equipment, and there is a clear risk of falls with serious consequences for physical integrity. It is possible that the equipment on the climbing routes, on which fall protection depends, is not optimally maintained, as it has been made by private individuals for themselves and not for profit, with subsequent users benefiting from its existence. Consequently, there is no natural or legal person, nor any administration, that can be held responsible for the installation or maintenance of the equipment of the climbing routes, being the obligation of each user to consult and check if the installation is in good condition and judge for himself whether or not he can trust it before using it. We must never underestimate the risks or overestimate our capabilities. In case of doubt, always consult a professional climbing guide. 

WATER:

At the climbing school Los Vados there are no places to get water, so it is necessary to bring it from home or buy it at one of the nearby restaurants or gas stations.

MATERIAL NEEDED:

Individual: helmet, harness, adjustable anchor line (e.g. 1 locking biner, 1.2 m. of dynamic rope, and 1 self-locking plate), climbing shoes, water bottle, water (1.5-2 l.), food, charged cell phone, charged headtorch, knife, lighter, warm clothing and appropriate footwear for the approach by trail to the climbing sectors.

Collective: 80 m. long dynamic rope, 20 climbing express tapes, 3 locking biners, and 1 60 cm. sewn lanyard to mount top-rope, climbing brush, pole or rod for pre-climbing, descender (figure eight or similar, with a locking biner), material for reinforcement and/or abandonment (rope, maillons...), climbing guide of the school (sketch) and first aid kit.

BEST TIME/S:

The climb in the sectors of Tajo de la Canal (Minotauro, Carretera, Límbico, Berrios, La Canal and Placas Negras), and in the sector La Guardería, is recommended between the months of November and April (the coldest months), although keep in mind that in three of them (Minotauro, Carretera and Límbico) climbing is prohibited between January 1 and April 30.

The Tajo del Escalate, which does not have any regulations, is also ideal for hiking in winter, in the afternoon.

The sectors of Tajo de la Virgen (Pared de la Virgen, Diedro Blanco, Mátrix, and Río) are perfect for climbing between April and October (the hottest months), as there are no regulations due to nesting during that period.

GUIDE (SKETCHES, ETC.):

Escalar en Granada, guide to sport climbing. Editions Alsur, S. C. A.

MAPPING:

National Topographic map of Spain. Molvízar (MTN25 1055-II).

LANDSCAPE, FLORA AND FAUNA:

In the Tajo de los Vados we find two very diverse ecosystems: the riverside, next to the river, where oleanders and rushes grow; and a rock ecosystem, typical of the cliffs, in which three endangered species stand out: the shrubs Maytenus senegalensis and Buxus balearica, and the white rosemary, Rosmarinus tomentosus. We can also find "zapaticos de la virgen", Sarcocapnos.

Mountain goats abound although birds are the most numerous faunistic group in Tajo de los Vados. Among them are the kestrels, Bonelli's eagles, eagle owls, rock thrushes, and black wheatears. In addition, in the caves and hollows of the rock inhabit up to three species of bats: the buzzard, the horseshoe bat, and the long-tailed bat.

REMARKS:

At the time of the writing of this review, the state of the equipment of the pathways that make up this school is, in general, very good.

The number of tracks specified in this overview for the different sectors is only approximate, since the opening of new pathways is very common.

The existence of climbing pitches of up to 40 meters in length requires the use of a rope of 80 meters and about 20 express climbing tapes.

When climbing, whether you are climbing first, belaying, or at the foot of the route, you should always wear a helmet, as any rockfall, no matter how slight, can cause injury.

After climbing a route and climbing down from the equalized anchor system, it is a very good habit to brush the holds and thus remove the magnesium we have used to use or mark them.

As a contribution to the maintenance of the equipment, we should not mount top-rope (leave the route mounted to make it second) using the ring or the carabiner of the belay. We should always use our own material for this (2 express climbing tapes, 1 express climbing tape, and 1 locking biner, or 3 locking biners and 1 sewn lanyard).

When parking our vehicles we must do it in the parking areas only and not perform dangerous stunts to access them (additions or braking and sudden turns, twists banned...).

It is essential not to leave waste, and, where appropriate, to collect those that we can, in order to maintain the environment.

It is very important that we pay special attention to the way in which we satisfy our most basic needs while we are climbing. To do this, it is necessary to retreat from the transit and climbing areas, and, always, bury the feces, and take with us the paper or wipes used (for this, it's useful to carry zip-locked bags).

WEATHER:

How to arrive by car

From Granada we exit through the A-44 in the direction of Motril. We take the exit 183 (E-15/A7/Salobreña/Málaga)) and, after joining the A-7, we will leave it taking the output 325 (GR-14/Salobreña/Motril/puerto/N-323/Vélez de Benaudalla). Then, we will join the N-323 in the direction of Vélez de Benaudalla/Granada, continuing on this road until you reach the parking lot 3, the parking 2 or parking 1, in that order.

Parking

Available.
Parking exit:

Parking lot 3 in the Tajo de los Vados, N-323, Motril:
https://goo.gl/maps/k9DSor3BQq2sMcVW6

Parking 2 in the Tajo de los Vados, N-323, Motril:
https://goo.gl/maps/KFuSRuf4ehNEmCCa9

Parking 1 in the Tajo de los Vados, N-323, Motril:
https://goo.gl/maps/1i57t5fqxtKMAKcR8

How to get there by public transport

The buses that depart in the direction of Motril do it from the Bus station in Granada which do it at different hours. Once we get to the Bus station in Motril, we may resort to any of the transportation services available to take us up to Tajo de los Vados (parking lot 3, parking 2 or parking 1), making an agreement with the carrier so they will pick us up to take us to Motril, at the time that we deem appropriate. The buses that depart from the Bus station in Motril towards the Bus station in Granada also do it at different hours.

Route

TAJO DEL ESCALATE

To get to this sector, we have to park our car in parking lot 1 (P1), and must then follow a winding road, supported by walls of stone, that will take us, on the rise, up to a farmhouse. We'll go around the farmhouse on the left and continue up the path until we reach a second farmhouse, this one in ruins, which we will leave to our right. Then we will cross a scree at mid-hillside to, sometime later, after 45 minutes of walking from the parking lot, reach the wall's area for sport climbing.

In the Tajo del Escalate, in addition to the area of sport climbing, we will find another area in which several pathways in classic style have been opened. Among these pathways, which run along the highest part of the wall, we can find the popular “Alfa Centauro Z-16” (230 m, 6b).

This sector is oriented to the west, and is ideal for climbing in the afternoon in winter, or in the morning (starting early) in the summer.

It has pathways of 1 and 2 pitches (predominating the former), even reaching the height of 40 meters in some of them.

In this sector, the difficulty of the pathways is located between 6a+ and 7c.

SECTORS MINOTAURO AND CARRETERA (TAJO DE LA CANAL)

To reach these sectors we will aprk our vehicle in parking lot 2 (P2).

The approaching distance on foot is immediate for the sector Carretera while reaching the sector Minotauro involves the ascent via a ferrata (be careful!) and takes about 15 minutes.

The orientation of these sectors is southern, which makes it ideal for climbing during the winter.

In the sector Minotauro the length of some of the pathways reaches 35 meters, while in the sector Carretera they only measure up to 15 meters.

In these sectors, pathways have degrees of difficulty ranging between IV and 8a+, being more numerous, and accessible (middle grade), the ones located in the sector Carretera.

SECTORS LÍMBICO, BERRIOS, LA CANAL AND PLACAS NEGRAS (TAJO DE LA CANAL)

These sectors are reached by parking the car in the parking lot 3 (P3) to then walk a few meters to the side of the road and start to climb following a winding path, supported by stone walls.

When this road makes a first sharp curve to the right, we can leave it to continue to the left and reach the Berrios sector. From the Berrios sector, continuing to the left, we will reach the sector Límbico.

On the contrary, if our destination is the sectors La Canal or Placas Negras, we will continue ascending through the winding road until we come across a water conduction, known as La Canal, which we will have to climb. Once we are on La Canal we will have the sector of the same name in front of us. The Placas Negras sector is located to the right of the La Canal sector, where the wall loses height.

From the car park, we will spend between 10 minutes (in the case of Berrios) and 20 minutes (in the case of Límbico) getting to the sectors.

The orientation of these sectors goes from southeast to west, passing through the south, making it ideal for climbing in the winter.

The length of the pathways belonging to these sectors is between 10 and 35 meters high, although, exceptionally, in the sector of La Canal, there are pathways of various pitches that reach up to 200 meters.

In these sectors the degree of difficulty of the pathways varies between V and 8b+, the easier pathways being in the Placas Negras sector.

SECTOR LA GUARDERÍA

This sector is located in front of the Tajo de la Canal, on the opposite bank of the river. To get to it, once we've parked our car in parking lot 3 (P3), we will cross the road and wade the river, paying special attention to its flow rate, which can be high. In any case, we will have to use appropriate footwear, or, in its default, take off our shoes to be able to go through it. The time required for this approach from the parking lot is reduced to just 10 minutes.

The orientation if this southeast sector makes it ideal for mild spring and autumn afternoons.

The pathways of this sector have heights between 15 and 20 meters.

The degree of difficulty of the pathways is located between V and 6b+, being more numerous the ones of V, which makes La Guardería de initiation sector of this school.

Escalando “Peter Pan” (6a+) en La Guardería
Climbing “Peter Pan” (6a+) in La Guardería

SECTORS PARED DE LA VIRGEN, DIEDRO BLANCO, MÁTRIX AND RÍO (TAJO DE LA VIRGEN)

The parking lot for our vehicle that is located closest to the Tajo de la Virgen is parking lot 2 (P2). To reach these climbing sectors from the parking lot, we will have to cross the road first, and then ford the river, considering both the strength of the flow and the irremediable need to get wet. Once we are on the opposite side of the river, we can head towards the Rio sector, which is located to our right, next to the riverbed, or begin to ascend following a path whose successive forks will lead us to the other three sectors.

The Rio sector can be reached in 10 minutes, while the Pared de la Virgen, Diedro Blanco or Mátrix sectors will take a maximum of 30 minutes, depending on the sector and the route chosen.

The orientation of these sectors is northeast, resulting ideal for climbing in the summer.

The sector Pared de la Virgen is primarily composed of equipped pathways with several pitches, very vertical, that can reach 200 meters in height, being able to get out over the wall at the end.

The height of the pathways in the rest of the sectors can reach 40 meters in some sections, existing pathways with 1 or 2 pitches.

The degree of difficulty of the routes in these sectors ranges from V to 7c+. In the Diedro Blanco sector, there are some routes whose first pitches are IV, making them ideal for beginners.

The tracks for GPS in general, and, in particular, registered in ravines, corridors, corners and other tight places, generally contain inaccuracies.

Most of the GPS reflect the graphic scale of the map in the screen. As we activate the zoom of the device, the scale of the map will vary. If we “get closer to the ground,” the scale of the map decreases, and, consequently, we see a smaller amount of “ground” than if we “get away” from it, that is to say, that we increase the scale of the map.

When you follow a downloaded and previously stored track in our GPS, we must ensure that the scale of the map on which the path appears is never too small. We will seek to “get away” from the floor, and we will not obsess with faithfully following the stored track , because we may not notice the inaccuracies that the latter contains.

The precision of the GPS is used to record the route was a, and the GPS that we are using for doing it is another, and therefore, it will be impossible that the points of both tracks, which serves us as a guide and that we are recording, match at 100%. It is for this reason that, even with a single way to move from a particular place, let us note that the track serves us guide runs several meters to the right or to the left of our location.

This website is translated into English. Please note that, in general, there may be a discrepancy between the Spanish and English versions, due to the translation process, and the interpretation that may exist in different countries of the specific terminology of the proposed activities. The Provincial Council of Granada advises the user to be careful when following the instructions on the site, and to consult an expert in case of doubt. The user is aware of the importance of carefully reading these warnings. The use of this website implies the full acceptance of the terms and conditions contained in this legal notice.

Responsibility

The Provincial council of Granada can not assume any liability arising out of the misuse, improper or unlawful use of the information displayed on the Internet page of www.exploregranada.es.

The Provincial council of Granada disclaims any liability resulting from the misuse of the content of its website and reserves the right to update, remove, and restrict or block access when deemed appropriate. It is recommended that each one of the users is responsible and prudent in the mountain. In any case, the user has to take the necessary precautions, for its use involves the exercise of a high-risk activity.

The Provincial council of Granada is not responsible for possible security errors that could be caused by the use of computers infected with viruses. Neither is responsible for the errors caused by the use of browsers with non-updated versions.

The Provincial council of Granada is not responsible for the information that is displayed on web pages outside connected directly or indirectly by links to the page www.exploregranada.es.

The elaboration of these reviews has required the previous realization of the specific activity.

All times described are effective and indicative, having taken into account for their calculation an average group of participants, an average capacity of these and the minimum stops for refreshments and rest.

The information contained in this Website is to effects indicative of tourist practice or sport.

In no case does it involve the organization by the Provincial Council of Granada of the activities described herein.

The properties through which the itineraries run are not owned by the Provincial Council of Granada.

Neither corresponds to the same its maintenance.

In any case, the user has to take the necessary precautions for its use involves the exercise of a high-risk activity.

The equipment, signaling, and any other type of installation on the route may also suffer unforeseen variations with the passage of time, for various reasons such as weather, deterioration, or vandalism; therefore it is strongly recommended to be accompanied by a guide if you do not know the terrain or the situation in which the signaling or equipment are located.

Also, we invite you to document yourselves with books and specialized guides to complement the information described on this website.

Pre-plan the activity. You should obtain reliable and proven information about the route and the activity that is intended to perform, in terms of the physical demands, technique, equipment necessary to make it, etc, In this “design phase” of the activity is where you can act on those elements that generate the risk that the activity entails.

Inform yourselves about the weather in the area. Do not forget that the weather in the mountain is very variable. Today, there are numerous possibilities of obtaining this information. This information is valuable to analyze, evaluate and assess the tolerability of these risks (rain, snow, storms, wind, etc.) which may be present or to accompany the activity. The paths may vary a lot depending on the time of the year and the weather conditions, therefore it is recommended to pay attention to the recommendations made in this regard and check the weather before each departure.

Each one of the participants of an activity must assess whether the weather is or not adverse to their own physical condition and skills to cope with this activity and it is your responsibility to do it or not.

Confirm in the area the prior information. Once you have arrived at the area of the activity to confirm the information previously acquired on the condition of the trails, roads, the snow conditions, weather, water level of the rivers, the situation of the sea to the specific activities that develop there, equipment that could have the sports facility, in case you need them, and dangers arising lately in the path and/or activity etc

This information can be confirmed in the information centers, mountain guides, shelters, Police, etc., The information contained in this website is based on optimal conditions and equipment in good condition to do the activity, and it is not the responsibility of the Provincial council of Granada the conditions of the sport equipment.

Adapt the activity to our physical conditions. Be modest and learn to resign. You have to know to renounce, even though one is very experienced. The mountain will always be there and will wait for us. Always put first the safety of the collective, second the safety of the individual. You should never be too self-confident or lessen your focus, no tter how easy the activity is. The physical ability is fundamental to the realization of any activity in the mountains, so there is no overvaluing our physical abilities, and we have to know how to adapt the paths to our terms. In case of not having sufficient capacity, users should refrain from doing the routes.

Adapt the activity to our technical conditions. For the carrying out of any activity in the mountain and more those that involve some risk, it is necessary to have knowledge of the specific techniques and necessary to carry them out; so we recommend people who do not have the necessary knowledge to refrain from performing any activity, even those that seem easier like hiking. The simple reading of the reviews contained in this website do not train any person for practicing the activity. It is always recommended the accompaniment of guides and staff specialized in the mountains.

Likewise, it requires a prior and deep understanding of the medium in which the activity is carried out, as well as the right time and the optimal conditions to carry it out.

Personal technical equipment. It is absolutely essential to bring the technical material, clothing, footwear, specific documentation, equipment, sun protection, food and water, etc., necessary to perform sports activities. If the activity is of high commitment, it should be expanded to first aid kit and emergency resources. The equipment must be perfectly revised and adjusted to the information and pre-planning.

Subjective objective risks inherent in all sport activities on the mountain. In all athletic activities on the mountain there is an evident exposure to falls with very serious consequences, which may be, but not limited to: brain Trauma, in limbs due to slipping on rocks, in the jumps without any visibility of the bottom, poor reception to the water in the jumps, assurance deficient in the descent of rappelling, extreme tiredness, excess of confidence, lack of preparation or equipment for the activity, inappropriate use of material, hypothermia, and dehydration.

This type of sporting activity involves risks that each participant must know and assume.

We must never underestimate risks and overestimate our capabilities.

It is possible that the fixed equipment the activity counts on (ravines, climbing, etc) and that depends on the progression and/or the protection against the fall in some sections, is not in good condition, as we do not have a regulated periodic maintenance. It is the responsibility of each user to see/check if the material is in good conditions and judge whether or not they can trust in it before you use it.

There are activities which develop in the snow, in places that are very exposed, or in the inside of a course of water, and depending on the time (during defrost, immediately after a snowfall, after a period of rain or storm), could dramatically increase the flow becoming very technical and dangerous. We must never underestimate risks and overestimate our capabilities.

This type of sporting activity involves risks that each participant must know and assume.

As well as an activity in the nature, there may be rock falls, landslides or trees, etc

Guides. In case you go with a guide, you must follow the instructions of the guides, coordinators, or people with more experience, preventing situations of risk, personal or groupal. It is necessary to put in the knowledge of the guides or companions of the activity any possible injury or incident which may affect the development of the activity before and during the athletic activity in nature.

The participants in the activities contained in this website must possess sufficient knowledge and the physical capacity which will enable you to make the specified activities, and to deal with them they must have sufficient capacity, technical and physical, so that they can do it independently and safely. Likewise, they assume the risks inherent in this type of activities and have the knowledge and the equipment needed to perform the activities, and must be approved by the U. E. and in optimum condition for your use.

Do not go alone to the mountain to perform the activity. If you do so, limit yourselves only to places with prior experience, known and consistent with your physical ability and technique. Except in exceptional circumstances, never to leave alone a member of the group, and much less if they're injured or fatigued.

Report on the activity and planned itinerary and respect what has been planned. Communicate to someone (shelter, camping, hotel, friends, relatives) the place and the activity to be performed. And importantly, even if sometimes it is cumbersome, it is imperative to warn that same person of the end of the activity. This recommendation is essential when trying to perform a solo activity.

Graduations. The participants of the activities should be trained to perform the activities in function of the graduation set for each activity, so it is your responsibility to know these rankings and the risks that it involves, therefore you assume performing the activity and everything that could happen.

Learn how to orient yourself. Carry GPS, mapping of the area and compass. You can not trust everything to the GPS, in certain situations it may fail. With a proper handling of the compass and map, we can reduce the risks and prevent accidents.

The tracks for GPS in general, and, in particular, registered in ravines, corridors, corners and other tight places, generally contain inaccuracies.

Most of the GPS reflect the graphic scale of the map in the screen. As we activate the zoom of the device, the scale of the map will vary. If we “get closer to the ground,” the scale of the map decreases, and, consequently, we see a smaller amount of “ground” than if we “get away” from it, that is to say, that we increase the scale of the map.

When you follow a downloaded and previously stored track in our GPS, we must ensure that the scale of the map on which the path appears is never too small. We will seek to “get away” from the floor, and we will not obsess with faithfully following the stored track , because we may not notice the inaccuracies that the latter contains.

The precision of the GPS is used to record the route is one, and the GPS that we are using for doing it is another, and therefore, it will be impossible that the points of both tracks which serves us as a guide and that we are recording, match at 100%. It is for this reason that, even when there is only one way to travel a particular location, let us note that the track that serves us as a guide runs several meters to the right or to the left of our location.

The activity in the mountains is not finished until we return to a safe place. The summit is only half of the journey. Do let your guard down until you're completely safe. This includes returning home in your car. There are too many mountain sports practitioners who have road accidents after a tough activity.

The digital mapping used in this website has been generated by the IGN (National Geographic Institute), to be used according to the conditions of the license of use and in accordance with the Ministerial Order FOM/2807/2015.

If there's any accident alert the emergency number, and even the family members or emergency contact. Every minute is important. To meet this recommendation is necessary to carry a mobile phone with charged batteries or any other means of communication to launch the alarm. The GPS is very useful to properly communicate our position and to facilitate our location. In Spain, the monst useful emergency phone numbers are 112 (Civil Protection), 062 (Civil Guard).

The Provincial council of Granada is not responsible for the correct or incorrect use which might be made of this summary, and the consequences that may arise from it. For this reason, it is recommended to the users to be responsible and prudent while carrying ouit the activities on this website. The use of these reviews implies the user will assume the inherent risks of the activity and involves the recognition of their sole responsibility for the security during the development of the activity. The simple reading of the reviews contained in this website do not train any person to practice the activity. It is always recommended to be accompaniment by guides and staff specialized in the mountains.

The various activities contained in this website, are part of what are considered to be risk sports, and they require learning and experience. This website provides technical information for many sport activities in nature, existing at present in the province of Granada, without managing to include, on occasions, information about the state of conservation and maintenance of the routes, facilities or equipment, if there's any. Therefore, the security contiditions for each and every proposed activity are not guaranteed.

The Provincial council of Granada does not assume in any case any responsibility for accidents that may occur while performing the activities listed here.

The information contained in this website is not intended to replace in any case, the experience of participating in sporting activities in the nature, who should be aware of the risks associated with the practice of these sports that are presented here and assume the responsibility to address these risks.

Some of the areas included in this guide are located within protected natural spaces subject to specific legislation and that the mountaineer should know beforehand.

The Provincial council of Granada does not assume in any case, the legal consequences of any infringements against the current legislation.

For any suggestion, the Provincial council of Granad invites you to send an email to the Contact from the web www.exploregranada.es.