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Climbing in Peña Cabrera

Practice of sport climbing in this school, located in Diezma, 46 kilometers from the capital of Granada.

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Baja Montaña

Low Mountain

Escalada Deportiva

Sport climbing

Invierno

Winter, Autumn, Spring

Technical data sheet

Technical Difficulty:

School of sport climbing on limestone rock in which predominates single-pitch pathways, medium grade (6th grade), and with a vertical overhanging wall.

Orientation: South, southeast, southwest, and northwest.
Equipment:

Maximum length of the routes: 35 m.

Restrictions: Yes.
Climbing is permitted throughout the year
Details on the duration:

Approaching time on foot to the sectors 15-25 min.

Minimum altitude: 1.265,00 m.
Maximum altitude: 1.499,00 m.
Closest/s Population/s : Diezma.
Municipality/ies: Diezma.
Region/s: Guadix.
Natural Space/s: Other Areas

Map & Profile

Full tour

Total distance: 4676 m

Sketch

Waypoints

Point Name Height Latitude (*) Length (*)
P Parking 1265m N37° 18' 54.2" W3° 22' 29.7"

(*) Geographic coordinates. European Datum 1.950.

Introduction

Part of the information used to prepare this summary was obtained from the guide to sport climbing “Escalar en Granada”, whose author is Pablo Gómez Ruiz. 

The rock climbing school Peña Cabrera has 60 tracks spread across 6 sectors. The climbing is predominantly of a single pitch, 6th grade, and with a vertical overhanging wall. The rock is limestone of very good quality and the predominant orientation of the sectors is south, ideal for climbing during the colder months of the year. In some sectors, there are pitches with 35 meters of height.

This school is also known among climbers as “Diezma” or, to a greater extent, as “El Naranjito”, because Peña Cabrera could well pass for being a small Naranjo de Bulnes.

Description

DIFFICULTY:

Very high. Climbing requires knowledge of specific techniques and the use of adequate equipment, and there is a clear risk of falls with serious consequences for physical integrity. It is possible that the equipment on the climbing routes, on which fall protection depends, is not optimally maintained, as it has been made by private individuals for themselves and not for profit, with subsequent users benefiting from its existence. Consequently, there is no natural or legal person, nor any administration, that can be held responsible for the installation or maintenance of the equipment of the climbing routes, being the obligation of each user to consult and check if the installation is in good condition and judge for himself whether or not he can trust it before using it. We must never underestimate the risks or overestimate our capabilities. In case of doubt, always consult a professional climbing guide. 

WATER:

In the rock climbing school Peña Cabrera there is no place in which to be able to stock up on water, however, in the approach by road from Diezma you will find the Fuente de la Higuera.

MATERIAL NEEDED:

Individual: helmet, harness, adjustable anchor line (e.g. 1 locking biner, 1.2 m. of dynamic rope, and 1 self-locking plate), climbing shoes, water bottle, water (1.5-2 l.), food, charged cell phone, charged headtorch, knife, lighter, warm clothing and appropriate footwear for the approach by trail to the climbing sectors.

Collective: 70 m. long dynamic rope, 20 quickdraws, 3 locking biners, and 1 60 cm. sewn lanyard to mount top-rope, climbing brush, pole or rod for pre-climbing, descender (figure eight or similar, with a locking biner), material for reinforcement and/or abandonment (rope, maillons...), climbing guide of the school (sketch) and first aid kit.

BEST TIME/S:

The practice of climbing in this school is recommended between the months of October and April, due to the southern orientation of the sectors (with the exception of the sector Puerta, oriented to the northwest).

GUIDE (SKETCHES, ETC.):

Escalar en Granada, guide to sport climbing. Editions Alsur, S. C. A.

MAPPING:

National Topographic map of Spain. Prado Black (MTN25 1010-I).

LANDSCAPE, FLORA AND FAUNA:

The limestone nature of the terrain makes it so karst-type formations are abundant.

In this mid-mountain area there is a native vegetation composed of holm oaks and thorny scrub.

The predominant fauna is typical of the mediterranean habitat: the wild goat, wild boar, genets, weasel, badger, wild cat, fox, etc., Between the birds of note are the bonelli's eagle, the griffon vulture, the golden eagle, kestrels, peregrine falcon and eagle owl.

REMARKS:

At the time of the writing of this review, the state of the equipment of the pathways that make up this school is, in general, very good.

The number of tracks specified in this overview for the different sectors is only approximate, since the opening of new pathways is very common.

The existence of climbing pitches of 35 meters in length requires the use of a 70 m rope and about 20 climbing express tapes.

When climbing, whether you are climbing first, belaying, or at the foot of the route, you should always wear a helmet, as any rockfall, no matter how slight, can cause injury.

After climbing a route and climbing down from the equalized anchor system, it is a very good habit to brush the holds and thus remove the magnesium we have used to use or mark them.

As a contribution to the maintenance of the equipment, we should not mount top-rope (leave the route mounted to make it second) using the ring or the carabiner of the belay. We should always use our own material for this (2 express climbing tapes, 1 express climbing tape, and 1 locking biner, or 3 locking biners and 1 sewn lanyard).

When parking our car, we must respect the entrance to the private property without obstructing the passage of vehicles through the lane.

It is essential not to leave waste, and, where appropriate, to collect those that we can, in order to maintain the environment.

It is very important that we pay special attention to the way in which we satisfy our most basic needs while we are climbing. To do this, it is necessary to retreat from the areas of step and rock-climbing, and, always, to bury the feces, and take the paper or wipes used (for this are very useful lock bags zip-type).

WEATHER:

How to arrive by car

From Granada we exit through the A-44 in the direction of Jaén. We take the exit 118 (A-92/Almeria/Murcia/Malaga/Algeciras/N-432/Cordoba/Airport), and thereafter, we will join the highway A-92 in the direction of Almeria/Murcia, through which we will continue until we take the output 276 (Diezma). Following the road A-4005 we arrive at Diezma, specifically to a crossroads in which we will have to turn left and follow the old national road (now, service road the A-92) and the signs “Hotel Restaurante Señorío de Rías”. We will pass the Fuente de la Higuera, which we will leave, next to a pond, on our left. Shortly after, we will reach a new crossroads where, ignoring the sign "Hotel Restaurante Señorío de Rías", we will continue straight on along the service road, about 900 meters, until we reach the entrance to the Cortijo de Peña Cabrera, which is blocked by a chain and where we will find the parking.

Parking

Available.
Parking exit:

Entance lane to Cortijo de Peña Cabrera, Diezma.
https://goo.gl/maps/6QeH6k4tM6Yo6Hzq8

Parking arrival:

Entance lane to Cortijo de Peña Cabrera, Diezma.
https://goo.gl/maps/6QeH6k4tM6Yo6Hzq8

How to get there by public transport

The buses that depart in the direction of Diezma from the Bus station in Granada capital which do it at different hours. We arrive at the bus stop of Diezma and, from there, we'll start walking, following the old national road (now, service road the A-92) and the sign “Hotel Restaurante Señorío de Rías”. We will pass the Fuente de la Higuera, which we will leave, next to a pond, on our left. Shortly after, we will reach a new crossroads where, ignoring the sign "Hotel Restaurante Señorío de Rías", we will continue straight on along the service road, about 900 meters, until we reach the entrance lane to the Cortijo de Peña Cabrera and, with it, to the parking of the climbing school. From here we will follow the lane of the farmhouse to then turn off it and reach the different climbing sectors. The walk between the Diezma bus stop and the climbing school could take around 1:15 hours. The return on foot to the bus stop of Diezma will take the same time. The buses that depart from Diezma to the Bus station in Granada capital also do it at different hours

Route

Peña Cabrera
Peña Cabrera

SECTOR DIEDRO

To reach this sector we will start from the parking lot following the lane that goes into the estate known as Cortijo de Peña Cabrera. Once we have passed the ruins of the farmhouse, after an upward curve to the right, we will turn left following a secondary lane that, halfway up the slope, heads west. After about 300 meters, we will turn to our right to begin to ascend decidedly through a clearing and in the direction of the wall, having to cross about 40 meters of very dense holm oak forest before reaching the foot of the wall. This approach on foot will take us about 15 minutes.

This sector is oriented to the southwest and has pathways of 1 and 2 pitches, the longest reaching 35 meters in height.

In this sector, the difficulty of the pathways is located between IV and 8c.

Escalando “La Vía de Nacho” (L1:IV, L2: 6b+) en el sector Diedro. Sierra Nevada al fondo
Climbing “La Vía de Nacho” (L1:IV, L2: 6b+) in the sector Diedro.
The Sierra Nevada in the background

SECTOR ZOOLÓGICO

This characteristic needle rises isolated to the west of the large group of rocks that composes the massif of Peña Cabrera.

To get to this sector we will take the trail that, once situated in the Diedro sector, facing the wall, goes towards the left.

The approach on foot to this sector, from the car park, will take us a little less than 20 minutes.

The orientation of this sector is south and the height of its tracks, of only 1 pitch, is between 8 and 20 meters.

The degree of difficulty of these routes ranges between V and 7a+.

Escalando “El caimán” (6a+) en el sector Zoológico

Climbing “El caimán” (6a+) in the sector Zoológico

SECTOR INEF

This sector is reached by following the path that, from the Diedro sector, facing the wall, goes to the right through the holm oak forest.

From the car park, it will take less than 20 minutes to reach the foot of the pathway.

This sector is oriented to the southwest and has pathways whose heights range from 15 to 35 meters.

The degree of difficulty of the tracks varies between IV+ and 6b+, being the initiation sector of this school.

SECTOR CASTILLO

This sector is located to the right of the sector INEF, and to reach it takes a 20-minute walk from the parking lot.

The orientation of this sector is southeast-south-southwest.

Pathways belonging to this sector have 1 pitch and their heights range from 10 to 35 meters.

Climbing here is more varied, with some overhanging slabs and some cracks.

The pathways have degrees of difficulty ranging between V and 8a.

SECTOR PUERTA

To reach this sector it is advisable not to turn off to the left once we have passed the ruins of the farmhouse and follow the path that, in ascent, borders the right flank (east) of Peña Cabrera. As soon as we gain views to the north side of the rock, we turn left, leaving the path, and begin to ascend through a wide and steep channel. When we reach the top of the slope, on our left, we will find the climbing routes oriented to the northwest. This approach will take us about 25 minutes.

This sector, the only one that can be climbed in the summer due to its orientation, has pathways of 1 pitch with an average height of 20 meters.

In this sector, the difficulties range between IV+ and 7c.

Escalando “Sesión sexológica” (IV+) en el sector Puerta
Climbing “Sesión sexológica” (IV+) in the sector Puerta

The name of this sector is because it is located next to the gate, still standing, although in ruins, of the Cabrera Castle, an Arab fortress built in the eleventh century on the highest point of the rock. The purpose of this fortification, of which there are remains of a cistern and walls, in addition to the arch of the door, and that adapts to the rock formations of Peña Cabrera appropriating them, was to defend the Zirid Kingdom of Granada against the Taifa of Almeria.

In Peña Cabrera, in addition to enjoying this forgotten historical heritage, we will enjoy wonderful views of the northern slopes of Sierra Nevada.

Restos del Castillo de Cabrera sobre la peña homónima, y vistas de las caras norte de la Alcazaba y el Mulhacén
Remains of the Cabrera Castle on the homonymous rock,
and views of the north faces of the Alcazaba and Mulhacén

To obtain more in-depth information about the routes that make up the sectors of Peña Cabrera it is recommended to purchase the guide “Escalar en Granada”, the work of Pablo Gómez Ruiz.

Places of tourist interest

Accommodation

Gastronomy

The tracks for GPS in general, and, in particular, registered in ravines, corridors, corners and other tight places, generally contain inaccuracies.

Most of the GPS reflect the graphic scale of the map in the screen. As we activate the zoom of the device, the scale of the map will vary. If we “get closer to the ground,” the scale of the map decreases, and, consequently, we see a smaller amount of “ground” than if we “get away” from it, that is to say, that we increase the scale of the map.

When you follow a downloaded and previously stored track in our GPS, we must ensure that the scale of the map on which the path appears is never too small. We will seek to “get away” from the floor, and we will not obsess with faithfully following the stored track , because we may not notice the inaccuracies that the latter contains.

The precision of the GPS is used to record the route was a, and the GPS that we are using for doing it is another, and therefore, it will be impossible that the points of both tracks, which serves us as a guide and that we are recording, match at 100%. It is for this reason that, even with a single way to move from a particular place, let us note that the track serves us guide runs several meters to the right or to the left of our location.

This website is translated into English. Please note that, in general, there may be a discrepancy between the Spanish and English versions, due to the translation process, and the interpretation that may exist in different countries of the specific terminology of the proposed activities. The Provincial Council of Granada advises the user to be careful when following the instructions on the site, and to consult an expert in case of doubt. The user is aware of the importance of carefully reading these warnings. The use of this website implies the full acceptance of the terms and conditions contained in this legal notice.

Responsibility

The Provincial council of Granada can not assume any liability arising out of the misuse, improper or unlawful use of the information displayed on the Internet page of www.exploregranada.es.

The Provincial council of Granada disclaims any liability resulting from the misuse of the content of its website and reserves the right to update, remove, and restrict or block access when deemed appropriate. It is recommended that each one of the users is responsible and prudent in the mountain. In any case, the user has to take the necessary precautions, for its use involves the exercise of a high-risk activity.

The Provincial council of Granada is not responsible for possible security errors that could be caused by the use of computers infected with viruses. Neither is responsible for the errors caused by the use of browsers with non-updated versions.

The Provincial council of Granada is not responsible for the information that is displayed on web pages outside connected directly or indirectly by links to the page www.exploregranada.es.

The elaboration of these reviews has required the previous realization of the specific activity.

All times described are effective and indicative, having taken into account for their calculation an average group of participants, an average capacity of these and the minimum stops for refreshments and rest.

The information contained in this Website is to effects indicative of tourist practice or sport.

In no case does it involve the organization by the Provincial Council of Granada of the activities described herein.

The properties through which the itineraries run are not owned by the Provincial Council of Granada.

Neither corresponds to the same its maintenance.

In any case, the user has to take the necessary precautions for its use involves the exercise of a high-risk activity.

The equipment, signaling, and any other type of installation on the route may also suffer unforeseen variations with the passage of time, for various reasons such as weather, deterioration, or vandalism; therefore it is strongly recommended to be accompanied by a guide if you do not know the terrain or the situation in which the signaling or equipment are located.

Also, we invite you to document yourselves with books and specialized guides to complement the information described on this website.

Pre-plan the activity. You should obtain reliable and proven information about the route and the activity that is intended to perform, in terms of the physical demands, technique, equipment necessary to make it, etc, In this “design phase” of the activity is where you can act on those elements that generate the risk that the activity entails.

Inform yourselves about the weather in the area. Do not forget that the weather in the mountain is very variable. Today, there are numerous possibilities of obtaining this information. This information is valuable to analyze, evaluate and assess the tolerability of these risks (rain, snow, storms, wind, etc.) which may be present or to accompany the activity. The paths may vary a lot depending on the time of the year and the weather conditions, therefore it is recommended to pay attention to the recommendations made in this regard and check the weather before each departure.

Each one of the participants of an activity must assess whether the weather is or not adverse to their own physical condition and skills to cope with this activity and it is your responsibility to do it or not.

Confirm in the area the prior information. Once you have arrived at the area of the activity to confirm the information previously acquired on the condition of the trails, roads, the snow conditions, weather, water level of the rivers, the situation of the sea to the specific activities that develop there, equipment that could have the sports facility, in case you need them, and dangers arising lately in the path and/or activity etc

This information can be confirmed in the information centers, mountain guides, shelters, Police, etc., The information contained in this website is based on optimal conditions and equipment in good condition to do the activity, and it is not the responsibility of the Provincial council of Granada the conditions of the sport equipment.

Adapt the activity to our physical conditions. Be modest and learn to resign. You have to know to renounce, even though one is very experienced. The mountain will always be there and will wait for us. Always put first the safety of the collective, second the safety of the individual. You should never be too self-confident or lessen your focus, no tter how easy the activity is. The physical ability is fundamental to the realization of any activity in the mountains, so there is no overvaluing our physical abilities, and we have to know how to adapt the paths to our terms. In case of not having sufficient capacity, users should refrain from doing the routes.

Adapt the activity to our technical conditions. For the carrying out of any activity in the mountain and more those that involve some risk, it is necessary to have knowledge of the specific techniques and necessary to carry them out; so we recommend people who do not have the necessary knowledge to refrain from performing any activity, even those that seem easier like hiking. The simple reading of the reviews contained in this website do not train any person for practicing the activity. It is always recommended the accompaniment of guides and staff specialized in the mountains.

Likewise, it requires a prior and deep understanding of the medium in which the activity is carried out, as well as the right time and the optimal conditions to carry it out.

Personal technical equipment. It is absolutely essential to bring the technical material, clothing, footwear, specific documentation, equipment, sun protection, food and water, etc., necessary to perform sports activities. If the activity is of high commitment, it should be expanded to first aid kit and emergency resources. The equipment must be perfectly revised and adjusted to the information and pre-planning.

Subjective objective risks inherent in all sport activities on the mountain. In all athletic activities on the mountain there is an evident exposure to falls with very serious consequences, which may be, but not limited to: brain Trauma, in limbs due to slipping on rocks, in the jumps without any visibility of the bottom, poor reception to the water in the jumps, assurance deficient in the descent of rappelling, extreme tiredness, excess of confidence, lack of preparation or equipment for the activity, inappropriate use of material, hypothermia, and dehydration.

This type of sporting activity involves risks that each participant must know and assume.

We must never underestimate risks and overestimate our capabilities.

It is possible that the fixed equipment the activity counts on (ravines, climbing, etc) and that depends on the progression and/or the protection against the fall in some sections, is not in good condition, as we do not have a regulated periodic maintenance. It is the responsibility of each user to see/check if the material is in good conditions and judge whether or not they can trust in it before you use it.

There are activities which develop in the snow, in places that are very exposed, or in the inside of a course of water, and depending on the time (during defrost, immediately after a snowfall, after a period of rain or storm), could dramatically increase the flow becoming very technical and dangerous. We must never underestimate risks and overestimate our capabilities.

This type of sporting activity involves risks that each participant must know and assume.

As well as an activity in the nature, there may be rock falls, landslides or trees, etc

Guides. In case you go with a guide, you must follow the instructions of the guides, coordinators, or people with more experience, preventing situations of risk, personal or groupal. It is necessary to put in the knowledge of the guides or companions of the activity any possible injury or incident which may affect the development of the activity before and during the athletic activity in nature.

The participants in the activities contained in this website must possess sufficient knowledge and the physical capacity which will enable you to make the specified activities, and to deal with them they must have sufficient capacity, technical and physical, so that they can do it independently and safely. Likewise, they assume the risks inherent in this type of activities and have the knowledge and the equipment needed to perform the activities, and must be approved by the U. E. and in optimum condition for your use.

Do not go alone to the mountain to perform the activity. If you do so, limit yourselves only to places with prior experience, known and consistent with your physical ability and technique. Except in exceptional circumstances, never to leave alone a member of the group, and much less if they're injured or fatigued.

Report on the activity and planned itinerary and respect what has been planned. Communicate to someone (shelter, camping, hotel, friends, relatives) the place and the activity to be performed. And importantly, even if sometimes it is cumbersome, it is imperative to warn that same person of the end of the activity. This recommendation is essential when trying to perform a solo activity.

Graduations. The participants of the activities should be trained to perform the activities in function of the graduation set for each activity, so it is your responsibility to know these rankings and the risks that it involves, therefore you assume performing the activity and everything that could happen.

Learn how to orient yourself. Carry GPS, mapping of the area and compass. You can not trust everything to the GPS, in certain situations it may fail. With a proper handling of the compass and map, we can reduce the risks and prevent accidents.

The tracks for GPS in general, and, in particular, registered in ravines, corridors, corners and other tight places, generally contain inaccuracies.

Most of the GPS reflect the graphic scale of the map in the screen. As we activate the zoom of the device, the scale of the map will vary. If we “get closer to the ground,” the scale of the map decreases, and, consequently, we see a smaller amount of “ground” than if we “get away” from it, that is to say, that we increase the scale of the map.

When you follow a downloaded and previously stored track in our GPS, we must ensure that the scale of the map on which the path appears is never too small. We will seek to “get away” from the floor, and we will not obsess with faithfully following the stored track , because we may not notice the inaccuracies that the latter contains.

The precision of the GPS is used to record the route is one, and the GPS that we are using for doing it is another, and therefore, it will be impossible that the points of both tracks which serves us as a guide and that we are recording, match at 100%. It is for this reason that, even when there is only one way to travel a particular location, let us note that the track that serves us as a guide runs several meters to the right or to the left of our location.

The activity in the mountains is not finished until we return to a safe place. The summit is only half of the journey. Do let your guard down until you're completely safe. This includes returning home in your car. There are too many mountain sports practitioners who have road accidents after a tough activity.

The digital mapping used in this website has been generated by the IGN (National Geographic Institute), to be used according to the conditions of the license of use and in accordance with the Ministerial Order FOM/2807/2015.

If there's any accident alert the emergency number, and even the family members or emergency contact. Every minute is important. To meet this recommendation is necessary to carry a mobile phone with charged batteries or any other means of communication to launch the alarm. The GPS is very useful to properly communicate our position and to facilitate our location. In Spain, the monst useful emergency phone numbers are 112 (Civil Protection), 062 (Civil Guard).

The Provincial council of Granada is not responsible for the correct or incorrect use which might be made of this summary, and the consequences that may arise from it. For this reason, it is recommended to the users to be responsible and prudent while carrying ouit the activities on this website. The use of these reviews implies the user will assume the inherent risks of the activity and involves the recognition of their sole responsibility for the security during the development of the activity. The simple reading of the reviews contained in this website do not train any person to practice the activity. It is always recommended to be accompaniment by guides and staff specialized in the mountains.

The various activities contained in this website, are part of what are considered to be risk sports, and they require learning and experience. This website provides technical information for many sport activities in nature, existing at present in the province of Granada, without managing to include, on occasions, information about the state of conservation and maintenance of the routes, facilities or equipment, if there's any. Therefore, the security contiditions for each and every proposed activity are not guaranteed.

The Provincial council of Granada does not assume in any case any responsibility for accidents that may occur while performing the activities listed here.

The information contained in this website is not intended to replace in any case, the experience of participating in sporting activities in the nature, who should be aware of the risks associated with the practice of these sports that are presented here and assume the responsibility to address these risks.

Some of the areas included in this guide are located within protected natural spaces subject to specific legislation and that the mountaineer should know beforehand.

The Provincial council of Granada does not assume in any case, the legal consequences of any infringements against the current legislation.

For any suggestion, the Provincial council of Granad invites you to send an email to the Contact from the web www.exploregranada.es.