Lakes and Peaks of Sierra Nevada

DAY 1: HOYA DE LA MORA – LAGUNA DE LA MOSCA

We start from the Hoya de la Mora (point 0), where we will have parked our vehicle, and, after passing in front of the Capitán Cobo Military Shelter, we will leave the road (crossing the fence located on its left margin) and follow the comfortable path that takes us into the Barranco de San Juan. Above, to our right, we will see the astronomical observatory known as Mojón del Trigo, while below, to our left, in the area known as Campos de Otero, we will see the Albergue de San Francisco, with its characteristic red roof. The Llanos de Campo de Otero, today known as the Campos de Otero, was the place where the pioneers of skiing began to practice this sport in Sierra Nevada, back in the 20s of the last century.

As we move forward, we'll get closer to the river San Juan (point 1), which we will ford to continue our ascent on the opposite side of it.

When we find ourselves at the head of the Barranco de San Juan, where the borreguiles predominate, we will begin to go up its left slope (in the direction of the march) following the milestones that mark the path, sometimes very diffuse. When arriving above we will find ourselves on the Tajos del Campanario, abrupt precipice that overlooks the Barranco del Río Guarnón. From this point we can see the head of the ravine, a glacial cirque known as the Corral del Veleta, as well as the imposing north faces of the Veleta and Cerro de Los Machos.

Once we are above the Tajos del Campanario, a milestone will mark the beginning of the Veredón Inferior (point 2), a descending path that, with some exposure, will allow us to cross the pits diagonally and will lead us to the Trancadas del Guarnón (point 3). In this formidable, wide place, being surrounded by steep cliffs, and where the borreguiles and the water of numerous streams predominate, we will stop for a while to rest.

During the break we will be able to discern the path that, initially halfway up the slope, and then zigzagging up the opposite slope of the valley, goes up Loma del Lanchar. After the rest we will go in search of this path, which we will follow until we reach the Collado de Veta Grande (point 4).

The Collado de Veta Grande is located on the Loma del Lanchar and owes its name to the iron and copper mining that once existed there. From this pass we gain views of the Valdeinfierno River Valley, whose headwaters we will enter following the path that runs halfway down the slope under the steep east face of the Cerro de Los Machos. We will pass by the Lagunillo Bajo de Valdeinfierno (point 5), and, later, by the Lagunillo de La Gabata y Laguna Larga (point 6).

After passing the Espolón del Puntal de La Caldera, we will cross the north face of it. the same. At this point we could find a large snowdrift, which will force us to descend a little if we want to cross it without stepping on snow.

Once we have surpassed the north face of Puntal de la Caldera, we will have to go up the slope that leads us to a small pass located next to the Juego de Bolos peak. From this pass we will enjoy an impressive view of the north face of Mulhacén, which will be high, close, full of spurs, vasares, gendarmes and corridors result of erosion. An example of the erosion to which the Mulhacén is subjected are the canchales of rocks that, like ejection cones, are located at the base of its north face.

We are in the domains of the Mulhacén, roof of the Iberian Peninsula, and it will be in the vicinity of the Laguna de la Mosca (point 7), located under the north face of this giant, where we will find accommodation to spend our first night.

Something to keep in mind during the crossing, in addition to the prohibition of camping on the sheepfold, is that bathing, personal hygiene and the washing of belongings in the lagoons of Sierra Nevada are also expressly prohibited.

DAY 2: LAGUNA DE LA MOSCA – LAGUNA HONDERA

The second day, we will depart from the Laguna de la Mosca (point 7) towards the Gran Vasar de la Alcazaba. To do this, we must climb the rocky step that flanks the southeast end of the lagoon, and, once on it, follow the milestones that will lead us to the beginning of the vasar (point 8The Gran Vasar is a cornice that crosses the west and north faces of the Alcazaba.

Halfway through our journey through the vasar, we will cross the Espolón de la Alcazaba (point 9), which serves as a hinge between both sides.

Once introduced into the north face of the Alcazaba it is very possible that there are snowdrifts on the vassar. It is likely that these snowdrifts can be overcome through the rimayas that are generated between the wall and the snowdrift itself (as a result of the thaw), but it could happen that we would be forced to step on snow, which would make it necessary to use crampons and ice axe. For all these reasons, it is necessary to be previously informed about the conditions of the varsar (using the sources of knowledge and the recommended forums) in order to equip ourselves with the necessary material or not to walk it.

On leaving the Gran Vasar we will find ourselves in the Collado del Goterón (point 10), which is located on the main ridge of the mountain range. From here we will follow the rope until we get under the Puntal del Goterón (point 11), where we will begin to walk the Tajos del Goterón, staying close to the base of the same. This is one of the least frequented places in Sierra Nevada, being far enough away so that reaching it becomes a very demanding undertaking or takes several days. In this magnificent place, the thawing water falls forming curtains of water under which we will pass.

To get out of the Tajos del Goterón we will use the narrow ledge at the end of them (point 13). After crossing this ledge, the wall along which we are running loses slope, becoming a hillside. We will continue along this slope for about 450 meters, in a slight and diagonal ascent, looking for the Paso de la Z. The pass begins by overcoming the rocky step that is located in front of us (point 14Once we have overcome this step, we will reach an area of large blocks and begin to climb facing the slope, very steep here, looking for the most obvious way to overcome the wall that tops the slope. Once we have overcome this last difficulty, we will have reached the Cañada de los Borregos (point 15).

Once we are on the Cañada de los Borregos we will have to gain altitude through the right flank of this great hanging valley until we reach the top of the Alcazaba, at 3,369 meters above sea level (point 16). This emblematic summit offers views in all directions, being able to contemplate from it almost all the peaks with a minimum of 3000 meters of height of Sierra Nevada.

After enjoying the great views that this summit offers us, we will descend to the south, looking for the pass located between the Puntal de la Cornisa and the Tajos Coloraos. This pass gives access to the Colaero (point 17), step that allows us to descend somewhat abruptly to the Cañada de Siete Lagunas. We will cross this wonderful place passing by most of the lagoons that compose it (there are 9, not 7, in the thawing season), until we reach the lowest of them all and that is therefore called Hondera (point 18). Next to the Laguna Hondera we will spend our second night.

DAY 3: LAGUNA HONDERA – LAGUNA DE AGUAS VERDES

If we are early risers, seeing the sunrise from the Laguna Hondera (point 18), located at an altitude of 2,900 m., is a spectacle for the senses. Once we have gathered our gear, we will begin the day by taking the path that starts from the lagoon to the south, and that, after a zigzagging ascent, takes us to the Cuerda del Resuello. Once located on this hill, we will begin to climb it. After a few meters our path forks, leading to the left to the Alto del Chorrillo. We ignore this detour and continue up the hill until we reach the summit of Mulhacén after approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes of ascent.

The summit of Mulhacén (point 19), with 3.478 m., is always very busy in summer. This will be the day of our trip when we will meet the most people.

From the geodesic vertex of Mulhacén we can look out to the north face of this giant, being able to see the Laguna de la Mosca far below and, at the same time, very close, which is a dizzying view. The valley of the Genil River opens at our feet.

Once we have climbed the top of the peninsula, we retrace our steps to, soon, begin to descend through its west face. Halfway down we will follow the path that brings us closer to the Collado del Mulhacén or del Ciervo, which we can approach to enjoy a last panoramic view of the north face of Mulhacén and the Laguna de la Mosca. Once we have enjoyed this view, we will continue descending towards the Refugio-vivac of La Caldera (point 20), located next to the lagoon from which it receives the name (point 21).

We will then follow the path that starts at the refuge and that, halfway up the slope, goes along the deep basin of the Laguna de La Caldera until we get to Loma Pelá (point 22Leaving the basin we could find a snowdrift as a cornice that forces us to take extreme precautions (in case of lacking enough material and experience, we recommend not to follow this path and choose to take the path that, starting from the Refugio-vivac La Caldera, allows us to go around Loma Pelá passing through the Refugio-vivac Villa Vientos).

Once past Loma Pelá we will find ourselves in the domains of Río Seco, through whose headwaters (again, a glacial cirque), runs the remnant of what was the road that linked Granada capital with the Alpujarra. We will join this route, constituting a comfortable and wide path today. Below, to our left, we will see the Laguna de Río Seco (point 23), a lagoon next to which was located the Refugio Félix Méndez, a guarded refuge that came to be replaced in 1997 by the Refugio Poqueira (located further down, next to the Mulhacén River). Above the lagoon we will see the Raspones de Río Seco, with its jagged profile.

After crossing the Puerta (excavation in the rock that facilitated the passage of the old road), we will arrive at the Collado del Lobo, from which we will look out over the east face of the Cerro de Los Machos and the valley of the Valdeinfierno River. We will continue along the path and, after overcoming the well-known Paso de Los Machos (be careful with this pass, because it is exposed when it has snow), we will have the possibility of taking the path (point 24) that ascends to the Cerro de Los Machos, enjoy the views of the north face and the Corral del Veleta from its summit (point 25) and return through the same place until we rejoin our original path (point 24).

From here we will have little left to complete the day's journey. We already notice the presence of the Veleta, whose abrupt south face is the one that now offers us. Following our way we will arrive at the Lagunillo del Veleta (point 26). At this point we must leave the route of the old road and go down to the Aguas Verdes Lagoon (Laguna de Aguas Verdes) (point 27), a lagoon that is located in the Vasares del Veleta and on the glacial valley through which the river of the same name flows. Next to this beautiful lagoon we will spend our third night.

DAY 4: LAGUNA DE AGUAS VERDES-LAGUNA DEL CABALLO

The fourth day of our journey, we start from the Laguna de Aguas Verdes (point 27), undoing part of the path followed the previous day, to rejoin the old route of the road that connected Granada capital with the Alpujarra.

Once we are on this route, we will follow it (leaving it on a couple of occasions to continue the ascent by path) until we reach the Refugio-vivac de la Carihuela (point 28), a refuge that sits next to the hill from which receives its name.

From this refuge, being able to hide the luggage in its surroundings, and pick it up on the way back, we opted to climb lightly to the top of the Veleta, with 3,398 meters above sea level (point 29).

After climbing the third highest peak of the Iberian Peninsula (behind Mulhacén and Aneto), we will retrace our steps, pick up our backpacks (previously hidden in the surroundings of the Refugio-vivac La Carihuela ( point 28) and, after going around the Puntal de Loma Púa on the right, we will arrive at a pass from which we will begin the cresting that involves crossing the Tajos de la Virgen following faithfully the main rope of the mountain range. If we would like to avoid the complicated section that exists in this crossing (exposed pass and grade II climbing), we will take the path that leaves to the left from the aforementioned pass. This path, somewhat diffuse, although marked with milestones, runs along the southern slope of the Tajos de la Virgen halfway up the slope, and, although it requires the use of the hands in its final stretch, it will allow us to return to the rope once we have overcome the cuts without having faced great difficulties.

Once past the Tajos de la Virgen (point 30), we will continue progressing along the rope, now without any difficulty, until we reach the base of the Fraile de Capileira. After passing by this slender rock gendarme, we will face a new crest as we cross the Tajos del Nevero (point 31). The passage through these pits is marked with milestones and is not difficult, except for the difficulty of finding the right path through a complete chaos of rocks.

After leaving the Tajos del Nevero, we will continue walking on the rope. Soon we will pass next to a rain gauge, and, soon, next to a cistern. The cistern indicates that we are just above the Refugio Elorrieta (point 32). This old forest shelter has a part excavated in the rock that makes it unique and worth visiting. The poor state of the roof of the constructed part makes it uninhabitable when it rains, since it presents numerous leaks and the interior of the same one gets completely flooded.

We are at the upper end of the Lanjarón Valley, which now opens up beneath our feet. The mule trails that run through this valley all culminate in the Refugio Elorrieta, and, like this one, and the other shelters that mark the upper part of the valley, were built in the early 30s of the last century as part of the reforestation plans undertaken here at that time.

The path that we will follow once we have left behind the Elorrieta Refuge, once we have entered the Lanjarón Valley, is called Verea Cortá. This path has a route that is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular in the mountain range, as it runs through the vasares, and crosses the gorges, of the northern slope of the Lanjarón Valley, allowing us to enjoy all the lagoons, ponds and pools that exist there.

As soon as we start descending from Refugio Elorrieta we will see below, to our right, the Lagunillo and Laguna de Lanjarón (point 33). After fording the River Lanjarón, already on Verea Cortá, we will find the Lagunillo de Charca Pala (point 34). Continuing along the path we will pass by four ephemeral ponds known as Charcas de Tajos Altos (item 35), and, later, on a small landing, you will find the lake of Tears High (item 36), located just under the summit from which it gets the name.

Lagunillo and Laguna de Lanjarón (item 33)

Laguna de Nájera (item 38)

DAY 5: LAGUNA DEL CABALLO – HOYA DE LA MORA

The fifth and final day of our journey, we will depart from the Laguna del Caballo (point 39), and, after walking halfway up the eastern and southern slopes of the Cerro del Caballo, we will reach the site of the remains of the unfinished Lanjarón Refuge (point 41). From then on, we will leave the path that has led us there (and that would take us down the valley), and turn right to start going up the hill looking for a comfortable way to climb up to the geodesic vertex that crowns the top of Cerro del Caballo (Cerro del Caballo) (item 42).

From the Cerro del Caballo, with 3,011 meters above sea level, the westernmost three thousand of the massif, we can contemplate the best view of the Alto Valle de Lanjarón. Immediately below us we will see the Laguna and the Refugio del Caballo, being able to distinguish perfectly the channel excavated in the moraine of the glacial basin and whose purpose was to drain the lagoon for agricultural purposes in a time of intense drought (in the late 70s of the nineteenth century). Fortunately, this enterprise was soon paralyzed. Today, scientists are studying the possibility of restoring the moraine and recovering the water level of the original lagoon, although this is an extremely costly task.

We will descend from the summit of the Cerro del Caballo towards the pass that leads to the Laguna and the Refugio-vivac del Caballo if the approach is made from the northern slope of the mountain range. Once located in this pass, we will begin to cross the footpath that runs on the rope that delimits the Valley of Lanjarón by the north. In our progress through this rope, called Cuerda Alta, we will be able to tread on two three thousanders: Tajos Altos, with 3.111 msnm. (point 43), and the Tozal del Cartujo, with 3.152 m above sea level. (item 44).

Cuerda Alta ends at the feet of the Shelter Elorrieta (point 32), a place where we will distinguish the rows of stones that make up the quadrangular perimeter of what was once a botanical garden. Once we join the Vereda de Elorrieta, the path that leads to the refuge from the Lagunillos de la Virgen, we will begin to descend along it, now fully introduced in the headwaters of the Dílar River Valley. As we go down we will leave the northern slope of the Tajos del Nevero to our right. Down, to our left, we will see the Lagunillos de la Ermita, and, soon, we will arrive at the Lagunillos de la Virgen (point 45), located under the gorges of the same name. From this moment we will enter the domains of the Sierra Nevada ski resort.

We will then pass next to the Embalse de las Yeguas (point 46), an ancient natural lagoon that was unfortunately dammed in 1976. The place of the Laguna de las Yeguas was the place chosen by the first hikers of Sierra Nevada (in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries) to establish their high altitude camps and undertake from there their forays into the high mountains. At that time the sierra was accessed by horseback, following the old Camino de Los Neveros from the city of Granada.

After leaving the Embalse de las Yeguas reservoir, we will advance along the lane that starts there and, once we have passed the Collado de la Laguna, we will cross Borreguiles (point 47After Borreguiles, we will follow the path that leads to the paved lane that connects the ski resort (Borreguiles area) with Hoya de la Mora. This lane in turn leads to the old road that connected Granada capital with the Alpujarra, now restricted to traffic. Although the road winds over the Loma del Veleta, we will leave it several times following the sections of path and lane that allow us to shorten the route and, soon, we will have arrived at the Hoya de la Mora (point 0), start and end point of our long journey to circulate through the high mountains of sierra nevada.